I used size 3 needles and both ribbing and garter stitch for the edging. In a category that could alternately be called “small square things knit with cotton,” I made the following Christmas gifts.įor my brother, I made an Adventure Time washcloth of Finn (I was going to do Jake too, but I used up all my yellow yarn on the potholder…) I used this fingerless mitts pattern as a starting point, but obviously I changed many things. I wasn’t the best at getting quality photos of everything, but you can at least get the gist of how they look. Some of them follow a specific pattern, some of them are my modifications of other patterns, and a few of them are my own original work. I’ve collected eight knitting projects that I have completed in the last three months, all of which take a minimum amount of yarn and less-than-average amount of time to complete. And when I am slogging through a long-term-commitment pattern (like a sweater), I have to have a small project (or two) on the side just so I can finish something. I like to have a regular supply of finished objects. product knitter, I often fall into the latter category. It’s actually the opposite! In the great debate of process knitter vs. You’ll need needles that let you work in the round (circulars or DPNs) in whatever size lets you get a solid fabric with your chosen yarn plus the general knitting tools you need for most projects (scissors to cut your yarn, a darning needle to weave in ends, the occasional stitch marker or bit of scrap yarn to hold stitches).After my last post, you may have the impression that I am a big-intense-project kind of knitter. If you’re working with thinner yarn, 250 yards is a safer bet. The hat in the pictures took about 175 yards of sport-weight yarn. Basically anything that will give you a fabric with a drape you like somewhere in that range of gauges will work. That means you can use just about any weight of yarn from fingering up through worsted, and there will be a size to fit pretty much anyone’s head. The hat comes in four sizes (from a 72 stitch cast on to a 120 stitch cast on) and is written for five gauges (from three and a half to six stitches per inch in half stitch increments). The pattern uses charts, so you will need to know how to follow a knitting chart. Just to be super clear, for the avoidance of confusion, the pattern itself covers the hats, not the embroidery. I embroidered on mine after I was done (you can see that in the last two pictures). You’ll start the brim with a simple little rib, then set to work making that rib wrap round the sides of the hat, then finish everything off with some of the loveliest decreases I ever did see. The actual knitting is surprisingly simple. This 20-page pattern includes information for both hats. When I was done knitting, I used duplicate stitch to doodle all over mine (you’ll see that in two of the pictures here). Because once you realize you can get two different versions of a hat, each delightful and each with a different vibe, just by changing how you stack up your increases and decreases? Well it’s hard not to go ahead and do exactly that.Īnd speaking of my scandalous lack of restraint, these hats are especially well suited to further adornment. And it was too hard to pick just one, so I ended up doing two. But you see, there’s more than one way to do that. I love to find something fun, then tweak it and tweak it and tweak it, just to see what happens.įor these hats, that meant starting with a pretty little ribbing then setting to work with increases and decreases to make that ribbing wander off in a rather fetching fashion. The more I look back on my earlier work, the more I see that this has always been the case. Exploring variations on a theme is my happy place.
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